France // Rail Europe November 2017

A great trip to see France and of course done the travel agent FAM way with a very intense schedule but very informative.

One huge take away and important lesson learned is about the way you travel with a Eurail Pass is to advise your clients HOW and WHEN to fill out their Eurail Passes. When they leave our office with a “blank Eurail Pass” make sure upon arrival at the first station that they validate the pass in the correct machines. Since our passes were complimentary the stamps were already filled out (click to see a copy). One can NOT prefill with the dates you will travel as that will invalidate the pass. Each day you fill out the Day and Month you are traveling and if you are traveling roundtrip to one city in a day you only fill out the one date. Day on the top and month on the bottom when you look at the coupon. What is also very important is to fill out the travel diary (part of the Rail Europe ticket jacket) as the conductors onboard will check both the pass as well as the itinerary. Make sure to enter all information requested. This has to be done PRIOR to the conductor walking by to check tickets as if the correct information is not completed you will be fined on the spot. One of our agents had filled out the travel itinerary with our journey that day, by the time the conductor came around but had not yet completed the Eurail Pass portion (date and month) and she was fined 50EUR on the train.

Another huge take away from this journey is that we need to qualify our clients traveling by rail. I assume that all of Europe works similar and that is. In the main area of the train stations there are monitors listing all trains and departures however the tracks do not get announced until shortly before the train arrives/departs. So if the station is busy, huge amounts of people will gather in this area and once tracks are announced people run/walk fast to the tracks. Tracks can be far away so clients have to be able to move fast with their luggage and find the train track. Once on the correct train track located a train map so that you can see how far you need to walk to your actual train car. Granted you can get on anywhere and then walk through the train but you also have to consider the luggage. We did have a woman in our group who was a bit older and she did well however we certainly help her up/down the stairs as there was not always an elevator or escalator around/insight. At the end of each train car there are some racks to put luggage but note that they are not always on floor level so you have to be able to lift your luggage.

July 7, 2017 Train operator SNCF started a massive set of changes to the country’s regional rail timetables, including a significantly faster journey between Paris and Bordeaux. Before that date the train journey was 3 hours 14 minutes and after July 7 just over 2 hours. Same between Paris and Rennes, July 7 and after journey will only take 1hr25, compared to the previous 2 hours 4 minutes and between Paris and Nantes a time saver of 10 minutes. This overhaul will see SNCF roll out 40 new trains on certain lines and refurbishing another 24 between now and 2019 as part of a billion-euro plan. This will also include “more ergonomic” chairs and WiFi connections aboard all trains (We didn’t have WIFI on all trains and on the trains we were told had WIFI we still didn’t always have it). By 2019, the Paris to Bordeaux line is expected to have an additional 2.3 million passengers per year.

Day 1 // November 13 Paris to Bordeaux
Arrive Paris CDG and due to a 2 hour wait to get through passport control, I missed the opportunity to try the airport train and metro to Paris center to meet the group at the Paris Montparnasse Station. Instead we took a taxi which cost 160EURO for a shared taxi for 4 women (going to a common area). TGV train between Paris and Bordeaux 1st class as we all had Eurail Global Pass 1st class passes. Onboard we were given meal voucher which isn’t new but you may not be familiar with that we have the option to add to our clients booking. Don’t know if it’s such a great idea as the staff onboard was not familiar with the concept and it took a long time to “feed us 10 women” and I felt bad for the regular passengers onboard who had to wait. The meal voucher concept is only available on some trains in France. Train journey 2 hours.

Bordeaux, hub of the famed wine-growing region, is a port city on the Garonne River in southwestern France. It’s known for its Gothic Cathédrale Saint-André, 18th- to 19th-century mansions and notable art museums such as the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Bordeaux. Public gardens line the curving river quays. The grand Place de la Bourse, centered on the Three Graces fountain, overlooks the Miroir d’Eau reflecting pool. We had a great city walk as well as traveled by the city’s tram system as the city is quite large.

Dinner at Brasserie Bordelaise – https://www.brasserie-bordelaise.fr/

Overnight 1 night at the Mercure Bordeaux Centre Gare Saint Jean (good hotel within walking distance of the train station).

Day 2 // November 14 Bordeaux to Nantes
Early check out and walked back to the train station for departure to Nantes. Journey time was just under 5 hours (with no WIFI). We were met by the Nantes tourist board and walked to where we were eating which was a barge on the water called the O Deck Restaurant sur l’O. Great food and great scenary. City of Nantes turned out by the end of the trip to be the group favorite and definitely a city I will recommend for future France requests. Located in the naves of the former shipyards, the Machines de l’île were set up as an artistic project and now consist in 3 different attractions: the Gallery, the Grand Elephant as well as the Carrousel (See Worlds Merry-Go-Round). The Grand Elephant unfortunately was in their workshop (which we got to see as well but no photos allowed) and instead they had a dragon called Logmna which was built here in the workshop but built for someone in Asia but since the Elephant is under renovation that have borrowed it back to Nantes until next Spring. We did get to go on the Carrousel (Merry-Go-Round as well). This outstanding project merges the imaginary world of Jules Verne, the mechanical universe of Leonardo da Vinci and the industrial history of Nantes. It is now the top tourist attraction of the city and one of the reasons I would recommend a client travel to Nantes. Walked from this area to their historic area and enjoyed architectural heritage. Grasp the history of the city through a footpath in the districts of the historic center. From Medieval times to the XIXth century, stroll around the Bouffay district on foot and go back in time by crossing the Pommeraye Passage, the Graslin the Feydeau districts.

Dinner at La Cigale – http://www.lacigale.com/ For over 100 years, no artist and star with a show on in Nantes has missed coming to sit at one of the tables in this 1900 French brasserie. The setting and décor of this listed restaurant is quite simply stunning. And the local food menu is up to standard too!

Overnight for 1 night at Hotel Radisson Blu de Nantes – a beautiful historic hotel on both the inside and the outside (old courthouse) however the rooms were simplistic and minimalistic as Radisson’s in Europe can be.

Day 3 // November 15 Nantes to Rennes
Early check out and transfer by coach to the train station for journey to Rennes, a journey of just over 2 hours on a TER / Intercités trains (no WIFI).

Lunch with our guide for the day at http://www.tavernedelamarine.com/.

Discover the Flamboyant Gothic architecture of Saint-Yves Chapel, the winding streets lined with colorful half-timbered houses and the décor inspired by Roman basilicas as you stroll through the center of Rennes. Tasting break at the Roazhon Opera: discovering of sweet local specialties and were the owner made fresh crepes for us and some of us including me got to even make one. We didn’t get to eat a crepe but we got to enjoy some local sweet treats which were yummy. Guided tour of the Parliament of Brittany building which we almost didn’t get in to as the guards had not received our groups notice but it all got worked out by our guide. The Parliament building is a key building in the heritage of Rennes, revealing a unique example of 17th century pictorial art depicting the history of Brittany. The great Parisian artists adorned what is now the Court of Justice with sumptuous French-style ceilings, gilded paneling and allegorical paintings. The Main Chamber is the pearl of this exceptional interior decor. Rennes is the capital city of Brittany, northwest France. It’s known for its medieval half-timbered houses and grand Rennes Cathedral. Parc du Thabor includes a rose garden and aviary. South of the Vilaine river, the Musée des Beaux-arts displays works by Botticelli, Rubens and Picasso. The Champs Libres cultural center houses the Musée de Bretagne (Brittany Museum) and Espace.

Dinner at Les Darons – https://www.tourisme-rennes.com/fr/restaurants/les-darons

Overnight for 1 night at Mercure Rennes Centre Parlement Hotel

Day 4 // November 16 Rennes to Paris to connect to London and return to Paris
Early check out and transfer by coach to the train station. TGV train from Rennes to Paris Montparnasse a journey of about 1 hour 30 minutes. Breakfast on board TGV train using TGV meal and again same slight issue that it took time to read instructions for the staff onboard and serve us all. We transferred by minivans between Paris Montparnasse to Paris Gare du Nord.Make sure to allow plenty of time for passport control and fill out emigration card. 21 makes minutes in the tunnel. Train travels under the sea and then in the sea and then under the seas. After you come out of the tunnel in England you have 35 min after tunnel to St. Pancras. Slower speed in the tunnel of 160km due to pressure. Biggest question Rail Europe gets from direct clients and travel agents is “will I see fish when traveling in the tunnel” So Rail Europe has created a complimentary kit called the Eurostar Odyssey and it’s a paper kit you “wrap” around your smart phone and access a Youtube channel to see “fish/shark” as you go through tunnel. We were going to do this on the train to Paris from London but unfortunately the WIFI was down. https://www.eurostar.com/uk-en/destinations/odyssey

Older trains usually make a connection. Ours stopped in Ashford, UK. Lunch service on the way inc champagne and wine. Onwards to London Eurostar train from Paris Nord to London St Pancras, journey time about 2 hour 20 minutes and remember there is a 1 (one) hour time difference between Paris and London. We got to store our luggage at the luggage center at St. Pancras and toured the Eurostar terminal in London St Pancras train station. We also toured the Intl. Departure lounge as Business Premier lounge (Dual level). Got a mini facelift this year but is undergoing renovation soon and will be for the next 2 years. This renovation was delayed due to events in Europe last year. At the St. Pancras station you have Europe’s longest Champagne Bar called Searcys http://searcysstpancras.co.uk/champagne-bar/. There is also a lovely statue by Paul Day called “The Meeting Place”. Statue is huge and is of a couple embracing. Eurostar 2007 moved from Waterloo station to St. Pancras Station. Rail has 80% of the market over air for London – Paris. Standard, Premier use standard check in. Business Premier can use separate check in and lounge. 10 trains for the most part refurbished. 7 new trains ordered. 900 seats in new trains and 750 on old trains. TGT train New TGR Old. New trains have Business Premier as the first cars pending direction so Business class can get off first. Old trains Business Premier in the middle. Old trains 18 cars, new trains 16.
St. Pancras Hotel English heritage listing. Strict rules when changed from British Rail off ex’s to Hótel. Fell into despair after offices shut down. An area in the station is “dedicated” to Harry Potter and platform 9 ¾ and you can stand in line and take a picture by the platform and there is of course a gift shop as well.

From there we traveled on London Oyster Cards from St Pancras/Kings Cross to Oxford Circus on the Victoria Line Tube and had a lunch/early dinner at a the The Argyll Arms Pub https://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/restaurants/london/theargyllarmsoxfordcircuslondon (great fish and chips). We also had some time to walk around. London was more holiday decorated than France and we just missed the lighting of Christmas lights by the Oxford station by an hour. We got to enjoy the Business Premier Lounge at the London St. Pancras station after we retrieved out luggage.

Overnight for 3 nights at Novotel Paris Gare Lyon https://www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-1735-novotel-paris-gare-delyon/index.shtml

Day 5 // November 17 Paris to Caen and Normandy Beaches
Early 5 am wake up and met for transfer at 6am. Transfer to station St. Lazare for departure at 7:06 to Caen. Not final destination for train today so make sure to listen for train announcements for correct station to get off. Normandy consist of Lower and Upper Normandy. Lower Normandy with capital Caen, 280000 people. Very spread out, need car to get around. City founded by William The Conqueror. William’s castle in town & St. Peter’s church. We didn’t get a walking tour of the city but only a quick one by bus. Big university with 35000 students and many campuses in the city. History and science most popular. Mostly limestone buildings and more single family home. Nice suburban feel to the city.
60000 tourists visit the Caen memorial museum each year. One can spend a whole day here. Main focus is peace at the museum. The saying on the outside is: “The pain broke me the brotherhood raised me and from my wound a river of freedom bloomed/overflowed. “ After a small coffee break we took a museum walk in chronological order and we had whisperer headsets to listen to our guide Oliver. Higher Normandy with capital Rouen. Also known for apple orchards and Calvados. Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword beaches. The British & Commonwealth beaches Gold Juno and Sword were named after fish: Goldfish, Swordfish and Jellyfish. Churchill, knowing that many men would die on a beach named Jelly, changed the name to Juno in order to be respectful.

After lunch we took a 45 minute transfers by minibus towards beaches of Normandy. Stopped at Omaha Landing area first and Pointe de Hoc. 40-45 Germans could live in the hole/underground bunker. We we told to watch the movie “the longest day.” Reagan said when he made a visit to the area “They gave their tomorrow for our today.” American cemetery (109 Jewish plots marked with a star vs American crosses). Drove through beautiful town Commes with old limestone homes and town walls and Port de Bassin. Manviux Le Breche. Also stopped at Gold Beach in Arronmaches with statue of Mary but by this time it was dark and hard to see.

Day 6 // November 18 Rouen
Our Rail Europe Rep, Rose Schwartz had before our trip told us that we had to plan a “secret” day-trip by train using our rail passes and if needed ahead of time book seat reservations. I got up at 530am and then took the metro M14 from Gare du Nord to St. Lazare. Train journey was just over an hour and I didn’t need any seat reservation. The train to Rouen had a 1st class car however it was a very old train and the seat cushions were torn and worn. On the way back the train had no 1st class car but the 2nd class car was nicer than the train I had this morning.

Rouen was a very walkable city from the train station to all of the monuments and to the river Seine. I walked to Notre Dame Cathedral Rouen (Monet painted a series of the Notre Dame Cathedral in the 1890s ) and on the way I saw their famous clock tower. You can tour the clock tower however this time of the year it doesn’t open until the afternoon so there was no time for that. The Rouen tourism office was right across from the Cathedral so I stopped there to talk and get a city brochure. The Christmas market was being set up between the tourism office and the Cathedral and opened the week of November 21. Also saw the cathedral, St. Maclou (should have been open but was closed) walked down to River Seine and then saw the St. Ouen Abby/City Hall. Back to tourism office to pick up a few things. On the way back to train station I saw the tower where Joan d’Arc was kept prisoner. She was later burned here. A few station stops along the way. Saw a Grand Marinier factory on the way.

Met group in lobby at 5pm to talk about our adventures. Left at 6pm for Lido de Paris show. Lots of traffic due to demonstration across the street from Lido so we were late but still made it. Time before dinner between 6-7pm to visit stage and take photos and also to dance. Lots of people took advantage of this. Once show started one could not use a camera.
3 course dinner which was very good (Prawns, cod and lemon dessert). Show was amazing with topless dances but it was done well. Also acrobats, a mime, ice scaring show. Wonderful French singer as well. Show was 2 hours 9-11pm and after our show there was yet another one. This production has been in place for 2 years and cost 35M Euro. Show last about 12 years.

Places the group visited today on our secrets trips:
Maria: Rouen
Carmen: Lyon
Rose: Basel
Carolyn: Illes
Laise: Chantilly
Laurenne: Reims and Champagne region
Paula: Versailles with Uber
Michelle: HoHo of Paris
Aurelie: Chatre
Diana: Brussels

Day 7 // November 19 Return to USA
Early wakeup call and the agent from MSP and I shared a transfer with one of the agents from LA to return to Paris CDG Airport. She had ordered a private transfer where the driver parked the car at the airport and followed us in to make sure we got to the correct check-in area. CDG is huge and this is something her company, EuroBound do for all of their clients and I can agree that it’s worth it. I have always “avoided” the CDG airport for clients as clients have had issued with luggage in the past, however I have to say I was impressed with Terminal E2 where Delta departs from. Huge duty free area, and small kids play area and Playstation area for teens. What I did hear from another passenger in the security line was that for connections make sure travelers have about 3 hours to connect. She only had 2 and barely made it (connection from Budapest) and she said there was no airport staff to assist or direct in the transit area.

-Maria